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After popular logo entered

Date: 2018-09-07
Times of browsing: 16


Since "China has hip hop" became "China's new rap", the show has not made a splash this summer, except for its contribution to the buzzword "SKR" and its confirmation of tiger leaping. Popular logo's market is growing at double-digit rates. One notable change is that even chanel, the traditionally cool luxury brand, has begun to show up at fashion shows.

As one of the largest popular logo exhibitions in China, the cargo fashion festival held in Shanghai at the end of August and the beginning of September is always the wind vane of popular logo circle. At this exhibition, we tried to find some changes in the domestic fashion circle after a year in the mainstream view.

Internet companies retreat, luxury comes in

The stand of chanel is set in the conspicuous position of whole tide exhibition area, the user that comes can sweep code to get gift and try incense for free, the line grows to fold two corners, never break.

Luxury and fashion culture are nothing new. Last summer, supreme and LV jointly launched a skateboard priced at 360,000 RMB, and Hermes followed with a $3,000 offer for beech. But it is the first time that luxury goods have been introduced as an exhibitor at a fashion festival in China, with the head of chanel's booth telling 36 krypton that the exhibition is "mainly for the purpose of registering for a public account".

Last year Internet companies dominated the terrain, with creative booths set up by Momo, zhihu, netease and sohu. After the hot style halo of "China has hip hop" faded away, this year's exhibitors have barely seen Internet companies, instead including many domestic and foreign niche popular logo. There are only three non-clothing brands among the 117 listed exhibitors. Apart from uniqlo and NB, all the exhibition space is reserved for fashion, which is quite vertical.

"Local bars and popular logo shops in Shanghai are all holding activities in these two days. Some brands and merchants are already talking to me about the cooperation next year, and we even want to make it a fashion week," liang chao, CEO of youtuo, told 36krypton. Show brand replacement, is the flow of attention. Last year, the "out of circulation" of the popular logo, this year has to return to the core buyers to consolidate.

Lower the consumption threshold, fast consumer products enter

Different from the consumption concept of the generation born in the 1980s, the generation born in the new era and the generation born in the new era have received a lot of education of avant-garde culture and art since childhood, which has the value orientation of fashion trend. As they grow older, they are about to enter the main stage of society. According to Nielsen, the post-1990 and post-1995 generations have become the main consumer group of popular logo, accounting for over 50%.

Young people are buying popular logo and outside brands are eyeing this group.

As far as catering, market, sports and furniture are concerned, as long as they involve the lifestyle of young people, brand merchants will find the grip of popular logo, because a group of their target groups are gathered around the trend culture. Just as the harajuku culture of Japan is highly permeated, the designer kawakubo kawakubo opened a "small grocery store" in Tokyo, and the small space became a popular place in Tokyo.

Fast food elimination Coca Cola and fashion are old friends, 2002 with adidas Originals introduced by Climacool shoes, 2015 with the human made people manage NIGO make coke bottles to make special project in 100, covers the hoodies, T-shirt, backpack, the rich, such as hat and apron so Coca-Cola was once known as the most drinks brands will circle money.

Beauty makeup washing and protecting brands have also joined the ranks of exhibitors at this year's fashion festival. BOBBI BROWN, BANILACO and home facial, as well as l 'oreal's "stylish men's factory" series and watsons, which are aimed at women, are jointly set up. But there were more people walking around the cosmetics counter, where the women swarmed.

The offline goal of goods is also to make a space integrating life and art culture -- combine coffee, green plants, fashion class, etc., and expand the connotation of fashion to the fields of catering, leisure and education training. It even hopes that the cultural appeal it has accumulated can radiate to the surrounding area of the store, and gradually expand into a fashion mall and even a fashion town.

However, if they want to develop, they will have to wait for the overall revival of the domestic popular logo market.

Is there a sinking market in the tide concept?

It is worth noting that most of the 55,000 trend-festival visitors in three days concentrate on guochao street, and the owner of the small brand of guochao reflected that the best selling area is jiangsu, zhejiang and Shanghai rather than Beijing, Shanghai and guangzhou, with the unit price basically falling in the range of 300 yuan to 400 yuan.

The success of the phenomenal business model is a reminder of the treasure trove of sinking markets. Traditional popular logo featured art concept, from design to material selection to brand building are costs, and the price is naturally not cheap. Can popular logo do the sinking market as well as spell dodo?

Outside the four first-tier cities, the demand for popular logo from "small town youth" in dozens of second - and third-tier cities in China may be unimagined. According to the market research data of popular logo released by Nielsen in March, second-tier cities are led by chengdu, hangzhou and chongqing, while guiyang, Hohhot and nantong are the main consumers in third-tier cities, among which the consumption in qinghai increased by 385% compared with last year.

In the next three years, the layout of 150 yoho blu set up across the country focuses on second-tier cities, while changsha, wuhan and xi 'an are under negotiation.

When it comes to sinking, the discussion of "commercialization vs. tonality" is a cliche, but it always applies to any fashion brand: a good company should have the ability to control the bottom line and the boundaries of the brand. This is determined by the enterprise gene. It is difficult to avoid the loss of core players while striving for a larger market. The key lies in the balance of the enterprise.

Five or six years ago, Vans had a line of cheap basics for everyday wear, which some older customers saw as "off-price," and skaters tended to reject it. But there's no denying that vans' overall business plan has been a success, with 2017 reporting a 19% year-over-year increase in total sales.

The sinking of popular logo means a downgrade of consumption above the bottom line of the trend-culture.

In fact, "commercialization and style" in the future market is likely to be free of outright opposition. Taking uniqlo as an example, from the popularity of UT series with marvel and jump, it is difficult to say that uniqlo is not doing fashion. With the development of Internet economy, the connotation of "trend" may break out of the inner circle of street culture and extend to various cultural types that young people like.

Ten years of national tide, different scenery

When it comes to the development of popular logo in China, the doomsayers always refer to the saying that "the domestic development environment is not as good as that of the United States and Japan. Actually, that's half the truth.

There is a middle ground between mass consumption and top fashion, and in the immature market system the middle ground is torn apart. Local popular logo has been struggling to survive in this ravine for quite a long time in the past, not to mention the development, ten years ago, the country tidal wave of death is also inevitable.

Things seem different now. During the fashion festival, the passenger flow in the national tide area of "RISING CHINA" is always the densest in the whole exhibition area. The booth design here is integrated with many elements of traditional Chinese culture. Different booth designs a large number of lucky draw, prize exchange, mobile phone charging and other activities, which can be said to capture the psychology of Chinese people. These interactions are quite rare in the exhibition area of foreign brands.

Lack of originality, copy, print or the hard injury of domestic products? Indeed, for a long time in the past, the domestic market only catered to the market for quick realization, and the production followed the design of big brands, and the quality was also rough. But 36 krypton, interviewed on the scene at trendfest, seemed too far away for some of the country's biggest bosses.

It's not impossible for an independent studio to make a popular logo, except for li ning, a big name brand at New York fashion week. Compared with the past, the number of domestic designers who have received good art education has increased greatly. Understand tide, the purchase crowd that wants to consume is much also, generation factory productivity also went up. Supplies, demand and production lines fit together, and independent studios such as Randomeven and bizzcut grew up on the backs of several street culture enthusiasts.

For each independent studio, commercialization is something that must be thought about from individual brand to enterprise. At present, the popular symbols, such as eating chicken and emojis, will be updated in the design, so will recruitment, corporate operation and learning management knowledge.

The first step is to survive, and then live long enough. What is the spiritual core of national tide? Nobody can tell right now. It has charismatic celebrity endorsements, cheap goods to sell, convenient ways to pay for things that look high-tech, but without a brand that prints seven letters to double the price of a newspaper. This is the country tide congenital malnutrition stubborn disease, can not resolve is doomed to go not long.

This is the best and worst time for popular logo development in China. On the one hand, the purchasing people's consumption power and consumption idea make more money available in the market. But popular logo, on the other hand, can easily get lost in such a bizarre market phenomenon.

To make a big brand, China fashion still needs the support of spiritual core. Without it, the blue cloth clothing store that calls itself "China's red ear tannins" is sold on taobao.

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